 An old view of Ispahan "Ispahan nisf jahan" (Half the world is Ispahan) goes a famous saying, means it is well developed, beautiful and worth-seeing place that one who sees it, as if he has seen the half world. Indeed, the magnificient buildings, gardens, parks, markets, squares, etc. are worth-seeing places. The square or the chowk is called here as khayban or khaybun. Each khayban is called after the name of any famous person. The river flows amidst the city, whereupon stands a bridge, known as Khaju Bridge. Another high bridge is newly built, known as Shahrestan Bridge, having 33 columns. When the snow melts from north side in March, a flood comes in the river. Sometimes the water levels the bridge. There is an ancient mausoleum in Ispahan, having two minartes with a distance of 25 feet between them. Its structure is that if two persons may climb individually on each minarate, and one among them may shake it, the other minarate also begins to swing itself. This edifice of minarates is called Jambun, meaning the swinging minarate. These minarates are from ancient time, and none has understood its secrecy that when a minarate is moved, the other at the distance of 25 feet also starts moving.
We stayed in Ispahan for five days, and departed for Mahallat on 8th October. It was a journey of one week. We passed through Ghazi, Murcha Fort, Maima, Rabatrk, Delhija, etc. on the way, and arrived at Mahallat on 15th October. Mahallat is a beautiful city on the foot of the mountain. Ismail Khan, the son of Sardar Abul Hasan Khan, the brother of Imam Hasan Ali Shah, resides here, and his younger brother is the governor of Mahallat. We did not inform him of our arrival. We at first alighted in the mosque, wherefrom we informed to Ismail Khan, but he had gone out of the city. When he returned at night, he knew and conducted us in his bungalow. He regretted for not informing him by telegram, and also for his absence from the city. He entertained us too much. His sons live in Ispahan, but we could not see them as we didn't know about them. Many followers of the Imam reside in Mahallat. We have visited to see them for two days. We then also visited in the surrounding mountains to see our Ismailis in Isabad, Daran, Shohan, Karam, Kamarabad, Kahek, Alyan, Tagan, Gulchasm, Atshako, etc. The climate of Mahallat is admirable. Most of the roads of the city have been cut down within the mountains. We stayed there upto 28th October. During that time, a tormental rain came down, resulting severe coolness in breeze and the roads too became slippery. Thus, the legs of my horse skidded and I fell from the horseback and injured. Kahek is one among the surrounding rocky regions of Mahallat as mentioned above, which is mentioned in our Pir's ginans as Kahek Nagari. It is now a small village, but there was its glory at a time, where our 40th Imam Nizar resided. In the village of Kahek, there are the splendid mausoleums of Imam Nizar, Imam Sayed Ali and Imam Shah Khalilullah Ali, along with the places of Pir Ali Akbar Beg and Pir Aga Ali Asghar Beg. Many famous persons had taken its visit in past, the list of their names of 130 years old is seen on a wall (13) .  Kahek On 28th October, we started from Mahallat and crossed the places like Dilijan etc. and arrived at Qum on 1st November, where is a mausoleum of the sister of Imam Reza of the Twelvers, therefore, many of them use to come for homage. We stayed in Qum for three days, and departed for Tehran, where we reached on 5th November. There is a distance of 75 miles between Qum and Tehran and is travelled by horse-cart. Like the bus service, it has its different stands. Horses are changed on each stand. Only 14 persons can sit in the carriage being pulled by four horses. Rate of ticket is 28 krans, or about Rs. 9.50/- When we left Qum, there was heavy rain on the way and reached Tehran at night and stayed in the post-office. We have to see here the King of Iran. Being asked, it came to know that he was about to go on a long trip of Europe, so there was no chance to see him. Well, after taking break-fast, we went to stroll in the market. All traffic was absolutely suspended between the palace of the king and the gate of Qazwin.The armed policemen took their positions everywhere because of the arrival of the king's procession. Thus, we stood at one place. After some time, the royal procession passed by with pomp which we saw along with his successor and Wazir, etc. Tehran is the capital of Iran, and a very beautiful city. It is surrounded by a fort, struck with 13 gates for frequent visits, three of them are mostly very bustling. The electricity is introduced in the city. The trams pulled by the horses are the public transport. Many parks and gardens are in the city and all kinds of fruits are available. The carpet of Tehran is famous all over India.  An old view of Tehran The son of the brother of Imam Hasan Ali Shah resides in Tehran, but he had gone out of the city, no meeting could be arranged with him. A great learned man called Shams al-Ulum lives here. The Bombay Recreation Club needed a book and we have been told that it could be available with him. We went to his house, but he said that it was not with him. He however entertained and talked much with us. He said that he had given tution of Arabic and Urdu to the Aga Khan. He has kept in his room the photos of the Imam from childhood to the present time with respect. We stayed in Tehran for six days, which we quitted on 12th November for Mashhad at the distance of 600 miles. We had a programme to see the Ismailis in the small and big villages on the way, thus a car was hired. We started from Tehran and stayed one night at Samnam after crossing Sharifabad, Evan Kahek, Lashkef, etc., where many Ismailis live and we visited them. We then visited the jamats of Faizabad, Damghan, Dekhula, Shahrud, Khairabad, Miami, Abbasabad, Majanun and Reuzu, and conveyed the farmans and blessings of the Imam, and also arranged majalis and waez. Then we came at Sabzwar and visited the jamat. We passed through Dahana, Nishapur, Niyajo, Kila Vazier and Sharifabad, etc. and reached Mashhad on 1st December, and thus we passed 600 miles in 20 days. The estates of the Imam exist in Mashhad, and a bungalow is known after the name of Shah Khalilullah Ali, is also located near Kuch-i Char Bagh. We went along where we stayed. The British envoy resides in Mashhad, whom the Imam had written a letter and we have to see him. The supervisor of the bungalow told us at night that the envoy was waiting for us since many days and asked daily. I had mentioned above that the fever had caused interruption for many days. Few days passed in comfort, but the temperature increased after coming here due to tiredness of journey. The employees of the bungalow rushed for the doctor, who examined and gave me medicines, and I felt some relief and slept peacefully, and found some recovery in morning. I went to see the British envoy and talked with him on important matters, and returned with his suggestions and advices. It was snowfall in Mashhad with the epidemic of influenza. I was not feeling well, so we did not like to stay more. We departed for Farukhabad by a rented car on 7th December, where some Ismailis resided, having a jamatkhana, whose rites and ceremonies correspond with us. We stayed there for three days and delivered waez in the majalis. We also took the visit of adjoining villages of Dizbad and Kassimabad. All these Ismailis are Imam's true lovers and fidais. Besides Dizbad, we also visited Dizbad Bala (the upper Dizbad) amidst the mountains, where the Ismailis live considerably. Their love for religion, the love for the Imam and hospitalaity cannot be forgotton (14). Our journey came to an end from here. We received their warm farewell wishes and returned to Mashhad and departed on 25th December. We stayed one or two days in Shah Taki, Asadabad, Turbat, Bedu, Hazri, Qain, Sideh, Birjand, Hazadab, Mudaur, Sarbesha, Allahabad, Shusaf, Khandak, Mahdi, Sufeda, Makhsul and Hormak, etc. and saw our Ismailis. We returned to Hazadab and departed on 31st January, 1924 by train and reached Quetta. We arrived Karachi on 3rd February, 1924 and went to Bombay for Imam's didar and to submit the reports. In sum, the journey started on 23rd April, 1923 concluded after about 11 months on 3rd February, 1924. |
Khaju Bridge
Sharestan Bridge